We were in Bangkok for week enjoying the temples (wats), food, people, shopping and waterways (klongs). Our hotel overlooked the Chayo Praya River. With Bangkok's infamously bad traffic, going by boat was often the best option. They have these very fast "long tail boats" with car engines mounted on a movable pole that serves as a combination drive shaft and rudder. The river traffic is only slightly better than the street traffic. When we were feeling especially brave we tried the motorcycle taxis, also known as kamakazi taxis. These are the fastest way to travel, but not for the faint of heart as the drivers tend to have a lower regard than most for the traffic laws. However, one advantage of the motorcycles over regular taxis is that the drivers cannot talk to you over the surrounding noise. Thus, you don't have to convince them to take you where you want to go, instead of to their uncle Ho's who invariably has better prices, goods, shows, food, or looking hostesses.

Then there are the ubiquitous "tuk tuks". These are modern day versions of rick-shaws that are powered by two stroke motorcycle engines, instead of two legs. The name '''tuk tuk" comes from the lawnmower like sound that they make, although it could also be derived from the coughing sound of anyone standing near their noxious exhaust fumes. Most traffic lights we saw were not working, but this did not seem to either surprise nor inconvienence anyone, since everyone disregards them anyway. Over the past several years, five separate and incompatible mass transit projects have started, but in typical Thai fashion, none seem to have any hope of finishing. But they leave a legacy of torn up streets which only make matters worse.

Just as in Phuket, we have found the Thais to be a very friendly people with a very proud history. Given they were not on any of the popular trade routes of the time, they avoided the dubious benefits of colonalization. Thus, their history is untainted with 18th century European enlightenment. Of course. like the rest of the region they are rushing headlong into the 21st century. However, like Indonesia and Malaysia, half finished skyscrapers dot the skyline as silent testimony to the recent fall of the local currencies.

We are constantly amazed at the versatility of the Thais in starting up whatever latest business venture seems to be the hottest new rage. This results in rather strange combinations of businesses such as a laundry and massage parlor; bar and massage parlor; photo shop and laundry; laundry, massage parlor and bar; grocery store and antique shop (make sure you get your vegetables in the right section); and the ever inventive, motorcycle shop and hairdresser.

Pleasant as it is, Bangkok is a large city and hard to get to know intimately. So last Monday we headed north for Chaing Mai. This is a smaller and much more manageable version of Bangkok. The night bazzar market here is pure Asia, with teaming humanity, vendor stalls selling everything from locally made crafts to pirated CDs, and smells of cooking food, old food and animals. Prices are incredible cheap for locally made items such as large bronze statuary, wooden carvings and terra-cotta sculptures. Send us your orders right away!!!

At one temple we bought finches from a little old lady that told us that letting them go would bring good luck. Not wanting to break what we thought was an old Thai tradition, we did as instructed and felt spiritually lifted as the birds and our gaze drifted to the heavens. It was when we noticed that all of the birds flew to a house next door that we realized whose good luck our purchase would bring.

On Friday we are heading further north towards the Burmese border to Chaing Rai which is the entry to the Golden Triangle region where the hill tribes live and in the past the opium trade flourished.

- The Grants

              
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